Friday 26 July 2013

Meeting the family

When I departed off the plane this time I felt straight away that things were different in Egypt. The airport was pretty much empty unlike last time I was here I stood out like a sore thumb I could tell by looking around that I was the only westerner woman and could only see one other westerner man in the customs line ahead of me. The customs officer took his time checking my passport asking many questions about my reason for visiting honestly I felt like he had nothing better to do so he was wasting his time talking to me. When I collected my bags from the conveyor belt a man was right beside me asking if I needed assistance to take it to the car. I declined and made my way to the exit.

At the x-ray machine I was asked to open my bag by security and was being questioned again about my reasoning to visit Egypt during this time. Over and over again they asked if I was a journalist. And my answer was the same no I am meeting my partner. After going through my whole bag throwing my belongings on the floor in the open area they found no signs I was a journalist and told me I was free to go. Later I asked Marwuan what would it matter if I was a journalist and he told me that the president did not want the world to know what was going on here at this time. Apparently downtown many international journalists were getting beaten, locked up and questioned and one or two even killed because they were supposed spies for international agencies.

When I was out of the airport Marwuan was nowhere to be seen I stood and waited for 15 minutes then gave him a call. He said he was stuck in traffic due to a demonstration that was taking part not far from the airport so I had to wait patiently in the heat for just under an hour. I was cursing to myself this was not a great start to my vacation I told him that he must be there waiting when I walk out the airport especially in the current situation then I saw him running in my direction. I ran over to him and gave him the biggest hug not letting go of him for a good 4 minutes it was so good to be back in his arms after being away from each other for three and half months. The anger I was feeling only minutes ago was long gone He apologised for the delay and told me that he ended up jumping out of the taxi and running part the way here because the traffic as no longer moving.

All baggage in a taxi we were to make our way to Marwuans family home, I was feeling very nervous about meeting his family but also very excited that I was now with Marwuan I kept looking at him and smiling as well as looking what was going on the side of the road around us. Army tanks were parked every 500 meters or so with men standing on them or in front of them with guns in their hands. Now it felt real I was in a country that was in a bad state but still I felt safe just being with Marwuan put all the worry about what was going on in the country to the back of my mind.

When we arrived at Marwuan's before entering the apartment my heart started racing what if they don't like me, "should I be wearing a head scarf to meet them" I asked Marwuan. He laughed "No you are not Muslim there is no need for you to wear one". Good good I had a few questions that I wanted to ask Marwuan that I thought about on the plane about his family but I had been caught up in the moment of seeing him I had completely forgot until now and it was too late. Marwuan rang the door bell and not long after his sister answered.


I was greeted with big hugs and kissed four times twice on each cheek to be honest I was a little confused about what was going on back in Australia we greet with a hug and a kiss on the cheek but not 4 kisses. His mother came rushing over with her arms wide open here we go again big hug and 4 kisses. Ok this must be the normal here I will keep that in mind for the next person I came in contact with.

Next was his father bracing myself for the hug and many kisses i leaned in to say hello but his father stepped back and shook my hand "Welcome" was all he said and walked away. I was lead into a lounge room where the furniture was wood but painted in gold and lots of little porcelain trinkets were on tables around. I later found out that most Egyptian houses were designed the same. A sitting room for guest that was dressed with grand furniture and all your treasures on display. This is not the room you hang out in on a daily basis only enter this area when you are trying to impress them.

Marwuans mum and Sister Sally sat down with me in the grand room while Marwuan took my bags into the room I would be sleeping. Marwuans mum who I will now refer as Mumma knew very little English, Sally studied English but did not use it often was my only way to communicate while Marwuan was absent. You could tell that Sally was nervous speaking with me and even apologised a few times about her English but I understood her fine so she had no need to apologise. It actually was quite funny because Marwuan mum was asking questions flat out and poor Sally had to translate.

Marwuan returned and Mumma went off to set the table which was in eye sight. I could see the food being put on the table, worried I whispered to Marwuan "are there more guest coming" No joke there was enough food to feed an army. I was asked to sit at the table. Tired after being travelling for 24 hours and not hungry, all I wanted was a bed I took my seat at the table. In front of me was 2 roast chickens, pasta bake, a plate of chicken schnitzels, plate of beef schnitzels, plate of Egyptian rice for each seat, a bowl of soup called Molokhia (which is a slippery leafy soup which may sound not great but is surprisingly very nice. You spoon it on to your rice and yum yum yum) also flat bread was scattered around the table.

Everyone other than me dug in, you could tell that they had been waiting for me to arrive to eat. Hardly cutlery was used Mumma was breaking up the chicken with her hands placing pieces in front of everyone it was not like I was not used to using my hand to eat because I had been to India many timesand thats just what they did there but I wanted to ensure that I was acting proper meeting Marwuans family for the first time, my plate was stacked with food that mumma had placed. There was no way in hell that I could eat all of this but slowly I started making my way though the mountain of pasta, meat and rice.

While eating the questions kept coming from his mum and dad with marwuans and Sally's help I was able to communicate. Marwuans dad Raafat must not have know much about me prior other than I was a westerner because he asked me if America was good a good place. Both Marwuan and I laughed but corrected him that I was from Australia. I think we embarrassed him by his face expression but he kept talking by telling me that he had been working in the Airforce as a mechanic.

After struggling through the food I had to ask if I could excuse myself to go to bed. I was exhausted. I was shown to my bedroom which I would be sharing with Sally and his mother. The house was a two bedroom house but the woman slept in one room and Raafat Marwuan's father slept in the other. As Marwuan worked away he would share with the woman when he was home but this was very rare that he would be home. However because I was staying in the woman's room Marwuan was not allowed to sleep in the same room so his mother made a bed on the floor for him in the fancy guest room. This felt strange in the beginning and a I thought quiet strange but I had to understand different cultures. In the back of my mind I hoped that if Marwuan and I were to grow old together that we would not be sharing different rooms.

Most the relationships in Egypt are not based on love especially in their day. I will give you an example Sally Marwuans sister met her now husband at work he liked the way she looked so Ahmad the man I am speaking of asked for her hand in marriage, he then asked Sally's mum to meet him, once she then approved Marwuan met him and approved then he was introduced to the father (which is a big thing) once father meets the potential groom to be Sally's father asks that Ahmad provide a house for the bride (to own the house) and to be able to provide for the wife without her working and also to furnish half the house. It is the wife's family responsibility to furnish the other half. Once approved by father the engagement period is about a year. During this year couples are not allowed to meet without future bride's fathers consent and time alone is very very rare until married. Man come to brides house to spend and get to know his future wife also phone calls are allowed. Most Egyptians are virgins until married.

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