As
planned I woke up early and spent the day by the pool soaking up the
Egyptian Sun, Mawuan slept until midday but then came to join me. It was
perfect no one else was around except the odd hotel staff member that
would stop by to see if we wanted a drink every so often. We played the
music we liked through the pool speakers and took a dip in the pool
whenever we started to feel too hot.
One of
Marwuan's oldest friends called he was staying in the next city Sharm
El Sheik and because Marwuan had been busy until now running tours back
to back they had not had a chance to catch up in a year, so plans were
made that we would take the hour long journey this evening to meet up
for a drink. The sun was starting to go down I collected my belongings
and made my way back to the room. I was looking forward to spending some
time in Sharm El Sheik I had only spent a few hours there while on tour
the year before and loved the vibe I got from the place. Sharm
el-Sheikh is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Arab
world. Many tourist from Europe and Russia visit and it was much more
populated than Dahab due to Na'ama Bay which is in the centre of the
town. Here you find shisha cafe after shisha cafe, restaurants like Hard
Rock Cafe, MacDonalds and KFC as well as nightclubs that fill to the
brim of tourist. All the big chain hotels are located in Sharm so you
get a verity of guests not just divers and back packers like Dahab.
We took a private car to Sharm this car would drive us there and wait
around until we were ready return to Dahab it cost us 300LE (around $43)
The drive to Sharm is beautiful the whole way you are driving through
the golden granite mountains of the Sinai desert. Occasionally you will
see the odd tree standing alone but the rest is just mountains. We have
to go through 3 police check points where I have to show my passport and
visa to the army. Each man at the check point either has a hand gun
attached to his waist or a automatic rifle hand over his shoulder. At
first this is quite intimidating but after a while you get used to it.
In Sharm we walk through the main street to my surprise the cafes still
have many customers. Each cafe looks simular with flashing lights, low
tables and colourful bright cushions on the ground to sit on. Each table
have different colour shisha either to the side or siting in the centre
of the table which the customers pass around their group. You see puffs
of smoke lingering above the tables but the smell is of strawberry or
apple. Music is blearing out of the cafe speakers some cafes are playing
Arabic music and others are playing English music that was popular a
year ago in Australia. Staff of the cafe try to entice you to enter
their cafe by dancing out the front while calling you in. Some cafes
have bellying dancers entertaining their guests; one cafe even had a
dancer with a large snake around her neck.
We did not enter
any of these cafes today we went to Hard Rock Cafe to eat then met
Marwuan's friend at an English pub called Monty's. The pub was small in
size at most could fit in 60 people. On the walls it had cartoon
pictures framed of famous people and the roof was covered in napkins
that visitors had wrote on with black pen then taped to the ceiling.
Marwuans friend greeted us as soon as we walked in. You could tell they
were both very happy to see each other after this long time apart they
kissed each other on the cheek. All the tables were full so we took a
seat in one of the tables that was already occupied with 2 English
girls. The rest of that evening I spent sculling cocktails and talking
to the English girls while Marwuan caught up with his friend. We all got
very drunk and danced in the centre of the bar to the R&B music
that the dj was playing.
We stayed at the bar until it closed
which was around 3am. Walking back to the main road to meet our driver I
was walking a few steps ahead of the boys they had their arms around
each other and were swaying side to side. I am always a fast walker and
find it hard to slow down I was hoping they would pick their speed up
but they were to into their conversation to notice. A group of men were
walking the opposite direction and one of them made a sexy comment
towards me. I just ignored it but Marwuan must have heard because he
came running to where I was and started yelling at the group of men. It
got heated very quickly men were pushing each other and fist were
flying. Some people were trying to pull the two groups apart and
thankfully Marwuan listened and walked away. He came over to me and
grabbed me by the arm and pulled me to his side. Yelling at me he said
"When we go out this is where you walk. Not in front of me not behind
me. HERE!" I was in shock I didn't know what was going on. I kept
silent until we reached the car. In the car I asked him why he was mad
at me I didn't do anything wrong but he did not speak to me. He did not
speak to me the whole drive back to the hotel and once we reached the
hotel he went straight into the room with the two beds and slept there
for the night. I laid in bed waiting for him to come into our room but
he didn't. The next day was Valentines day how was that going to be
would he be ok with me then. I kept replying in my head what had
happened and how I was in the wrong but I just couldn't justify why he
treated me this way. I finally fell asleep worrying about what was the
rest of this vacation was going to be like.
Friday, 26 July 2013
President steps down
We
were woken up by a phone call; it was Marwuan's mother she called to say
that Hosni Mubarak had just resigned from the presidential position.
Marwuan quickly ran to the remote and turned on the TV. I looked at my
phone it was 4pm in the afternoon we had spent another day in bed. So
much for me working on my tan while here in Egypt I was thinking. On the
television we could see the revolutionist
going crazy in Cairo. Hundreds of thousands of protesters crammed into
Tahrir Square erupted with joy.People were waving Egyptian flags,
dancing, singing and some even crying with happiness. These people had
been camped in the square for 18 days now. And it had all paid off in
the end. Still daylight fireworks were being let off in the sky. Even
though I was not Egyptian and did not go through the 29 years of
Mubarak's authoritarian lock on power, corruption, economic woes and
widespread disparities between rich and poor, I felt joy come over me
also. I couldn't believe I was in this country when such a milestone was
taking place.
After watching the celebration for an hour we needed food. We asked the hotel for a menu but they told us that a lot of the things on the menu were not available at the time because they had no guest when something ran out they did not bother replacing the items. They did offer to go out and buy us whatever we wanted but we decided that we would go in town and see if any celebrations were going there. We called a jeep and made our way into town. In Dahab there are no taxi's as such but if you want to go from place to place you either contact a jeep driver or you flag down a Bedouin driving a utility truck and jump in the back tray.
In town there was no mass celebration with people dancing in the streets but the restaurant and shop owners were out on the path talking to each other and saying "Marbook" to fellow Egyptians that walked by which means congratulations. Marwuan stopped at a few restaurants that he went to regularly to talk to the staff. Even though I couldn't understand what they were saying I could tell that the news of Mubarak resigned was the greatest news they had heard in a long time. They were speaking so loud and waving their hands in the air while they spoke.
Continuing our walk through town we walked past a Muslim Brotherhood headquarters were people were starting to gather. These people were the happiest I had seen yet. Briefly Marwuan explained to me that Mubarak had treated this group very badly and because so they had to do most their work underground. They had a car with some children sitting on top waving an Egyptian flag that began moving down the street honking its horn. Behind the car was a group of people with a larger flag chanting in Arabic. We stood back and watched for a bit then Marwuan joined into the chants. I could tell that he wanted to join in to the celebrations. I told him to go and join. At first he was hesitant. "I need to go use the internet cafe anyway" I said. There was no holding him back now he had my approval. He ran off to join the parade yelling out the chants. "I'll meet you at the internet cafe when you're done" I yelled he nodded and continue to make his way down the road. As the parade made its way through the streets shop keepers would leave their shops and join in the parade it was forming to be quite a big group by the time I left them and walked into the internet cafe.
A hour passed and still no Marwuan I tried calling him but no answer, I decided I would take a walk through town centre to see if I could see them gathering somewhere. But I could not see them anywhere. I stopped at one of the restaurants and ordered a thickshake. I was starving by now I still had not eaten since waking up but a thickshake should do me over until Marwuan returns. Another hour passes by I am sitting looking out to the sea when Marwuan finally calls me. "Where are you I'm at the internet cafe" I laughed did he seriously think I would still be there. I told him my destination and he made his way down to meet me. When he arrived he was hot and exhausted, he drank a whole bottle of water before I got a word out of his mouth. "So where were you?" I asked. He explained to me that the parade just kept getting larger they had ended up walking to the edge of town and then once there they all started dancing and singing Egyptian songs. "They are still all there" he said "but I knew you would be alone so I caught a jeep back here". "Oh how nice of you" I said sarcastically. I was not angry but a little over waiting to eat. He could tell I was a little frustrated so he apologised. We ordered some food and once I was eating I was back in a good mood. By the time we finished eating the sun had gone down behind the mountains. That night we went up to a bar and had a few cocktails before heading back to the hotel for a early night. I wanted to get some sun tomorrow so I didn't want to be out all night and sleep the next day away.
After watching the celebration for an hour we needed food. We asked the hotel for a menu but they told us that a lot of the things on the menu were not available at the time because they had no guest when something ran out they did not bother replacing the items. They did offer to go out and buy us whatever we wanted but we decided that we would go in town and see if any celebrations were going there. We called a jeep and made our way into town. In Dahab there are no taxi's as such but if you want to go from place to place you either contact a jeep driver or you flag down a Bedouin driving a utility truck and jump in the back tray.
In town there was no mass celebration with people dancing in the streets but the restaurant and shop owners were out on the path talking to each other and saying "Marbook" to fellow Egyptians that walked by which means congratulations. Marwuan stopped at a few restaurants that he went to regularly to talk to the staff. Even though I couldn't understand what they were saying I could tell that the news of Mubarak resigned was the greatest news they had heard in a long time. They were speaking so loud and waving their hands in the air while they spoke.
Continuing our walk through town we walked past a Muslim Brotherhood headquarters were people were starting to gather. These people were the happiest I had seen yet. Briefly Marwuan explained to me that Mubarak had treated this group very badly and because so they had to do most their work underground. They had a car with some children sitting on top waving an Egyptian flag that began moving down the street honking its horn. Behind the car was a group of people with a larger flag chanting in Arabic. We stood back and watched for a bit then Marwuan joined into the chants. I could tell that he wanted to join in to the celebrations. I told him to go and join. At first he was hesitant. "I need to go use the internet cafe anyway" I said. There was no holding him back now he had my approval. He ran off to join the parade yelling out the chants. "I'll meet you at the internet cafe when you're done" I yelled he nodded and continue to make his way down the road. As the parade made its way through the streets shop keepers would leave their shops and join in the parade it was forming to be quite a big group by the time I left them and walked into the internet cafe.
A hour passed and still no Marwuan I tried calling him but no answer, I decided I would take a walk through town centre to see if I could see them gathering somewhere. But I could not see them anywhere. I stopped at one of the restaurants and ordered a thickshake. I was starving by now I still had not eaten since waking up but a thickshake should do me over until Marwuan returns. Another hour passes by I am sitting looking out to the sea when Marwuan finally calls me. "Where are you I'm at the internet cafe" I laughed did he seriously think I would still be there. I told him my destination and he made his way down to meet me. When he arrived he was hot and exhausted, he drank a whole bottle of water before I got a word out of his mouth. "So where were you?" I asked. He explained to me that the parade just kept getting larger they had ended up walking to the edge of town and then once there they all started dancing and singing Egyptian songs. "They are still all there" he said "but I knew you would be alone so I caught a jeep back here". "Oh how nice of you" I said sarcastically. I was not angry but a little over waiting to eat. He could tell I was a little frustrated so he apologised. We ordered some food and once I was eating I was back in a good mood. By the time we finished eating the sun had gone down behind the mountains. That night we went up to a bar and had a few cocktails before heading back to the hotel for a early night. I wanted to get some sun tomorrow so I didn't want to be out all night and sleep the next day away.
Back to where we fell in love
When
we reached Dahab I noticed that it was also lacking the tourist, Dahab
had not had any protests as it was a small town that used to be an old
bedioun fishing village that now tourist flocked to because of its laid
back atmosphere and amazing diving sites. I expected that tourist would
still be here as it was an 8 hour drive from Cairo, far away from the
trouble but I was wrong most the tourist
had left. As we drove through the town I could see that the army had
also increased the their presence. Army officers with their jeeps were
parked in the centre of town and had taken over the police check points
that we had to drive through.
Our hotel was situated right on the Red Sea about 10 minutes out of the centre of Dahab. It was a little run down but because we were not married we could not stay in any other hotel.Other hotels would ask for papers proving marriage because that was the law and if they got caught with an Egyptian staying with a westerner without papers the hotel would face serious fines.We could only stay here because Marwuan knew the staff very well because this was where he stayed every time he came to Dahab with his tour groups. Walking to our room I noticed we were the only guest. We were given one of the suites which consisted of two bedrooms. One bedroom had a King size bed and one had two singles. The main room had a balcony off it that looked over the Red Sea towards the red mountains of Saudi Arabia. The staff at the hotel had made swans out of towels and placed the on the King size bed.
The swans did not stay on the bed for long. As soon as Marwuan could get rid of the hotel staff we were into each other. Not seeing each other for 3 and half months we had a lot to make up for. Hours went by where we were lost in the sheets. Exhausted from the activities both Marwuan and I passed out and did not wake up until Marwuans phone woke us up. I got out of bed to look out the window and the sun had gone down it was past 8pm in the evening. We spent the whole first day in bed. What other way would you want to spend it. Both staving we went to have a shower to get ready for dinner. Drinking duty free alcohol that I had purchased on my journey while getting ready we both were laughing and dancing around the room. I was happy really happy everything was perfect.
Once ready we caught a jeep into town to get dinner still I couldn't believe how quiet it was. Last time I was here the restaurants were full of tourist talking and laughing loudly but this time each restaurant only had a few table full some restaurants had no guest. The restaurants we decide to eat at we were the only ones there. Honestly it was nice because it Marwuan and I could chat to each other quietly over a glass of wine while listening to the waves of the sea hit the rocks. We took our time at dinner even though the food was out quickly we didn't rush off after we finished eating.
Marwuan got a phone call from a friend that knew that he was coming to Dahab and wanted us to meet up for a drink at his hotel. At first Marwuan said "No" to meeting tonight because we had only arrived today but I told him to ring back and say we could. I had been drinking a bit of wine and we had been in bed all day I didn't want to go back to the hotel yet. I also was excited to meet some of Marwuan's friends and find out how Marwuan is around people that he knows well. So we finished our bottle of wine and walked to meet his friends.
Marwuan introduced me to Mohammed and Waled. The bar we were at was run by Mohammed but was not open to the public today so we sat at a table in the corner. The bar was a little freaky because we were the only ones there it was not lit up but you could still see fishes and sea creatures painted on the walls in fluro paint. Walking to the toilet I was looking in all directions thinking that someone would come running out at me. The toilet had no toilet paper lucky I had my hand bag with me filled with tissues. You had to be always prepared in this country at restrooms because the majority of the population does not use toilet paper they use running water to clean them self.
Marwuan had bought a bottle of whiskey with him that I had got duty free. The men were very excited it was a rare occasion to drink a good imported bottle of alcohol. They were smashing down the drinks straight so the stories were coming out. They both told me what they had heard about me and that they were interested in meeting me as much as I was in meeting them. Both of them told me that they have never seen Marwuan so into a girl as much as me before but I thought it was just the whiskey talking so I just laughed it off and changed the subject. Marwuan went all shy for a while after that so there must be some truth behind it I remember thinking to myself. We sat around talking about the situation that was going on Egypt at the moment for hours.After the bottle was polished off we all called it a night and we caught a jeep back to our hotel. Almost 4 in the morning we laid in bed watching the protesters in Cairo on the TV until we both fell asleep in each others arms
Our hotel was situated right on the Red Sea about 10 minutes out of the centre of Dahab. It was a little run down but because we were not married we could not stay in any other hotel.Other hotels would ask for papers proving marriage because that was the law and if they got caught with an Egyptian staying with a westerner without papers the hotel would face serious fines.We could only stay here because Marwuan knew the staff very well because this was where he stayed every time he came to Dahab with his tour groups. Walking to our room I noticed we were the only guest. We were given one of the suites which consisted of two bedrooms. One bedroom had a King size bed and one had two singles. The main room had a balcony off it that looked over the Red Sea towards the red mountains of Saudi Arabia. The staff at the hotel had made swans out of towels and placed the on the King size bed.
The swans did not stay on the bed for long. As soon as Marwuan could get rid of the hotel staff we were into each other. Not seeing each other for 3 and half months we had a lot to make up for. Hours went by where we were lost in the sheets. Exhausted from the activities both Marwuan and I passed out and did not wake up until Marwuans phone woke us up. I got out of bed to look out the window and the sun had gone down it was past 8pm in the evening. We spent the whole first day in bed. What other way would you want to spend it. Both staving we went to have a shower to get ready for dinner. Drinking duty free alcohol that I had purchased on my journey while getting ready we both were laughing and dancing around the room. I was happy really happy everything was perfect.
Once ready we caught a jeep into town to get dinner still I couldn't believe how quiet it was. Last time I was here the restaurants were full of tourist talking and laughing loudly but this time each restaurant only had a few table full some restaurants had no guest. The restaurants we decide to eat at we were the only ones there. Honestly it was nice because it Marwuan and I could chat to each other quietly over a glass of wine while listening to the waves of the sea hit the rocks. We took our time at dinner even though the food was out quickly we didn't rush off after we finished eating.
Marwuan got a phone call from a friend that knew that he was coming to Dahab and wanted us to meet up for a drink at his hotel. At first Marwuan said "No" to meeting tonight because we had only arrived today but I told him to ring back and say we could. I had been drinking a bit of wine and we had been in bed all day I didn't want to go back to the hotel yet. I also was excited to meet some of Marwuan's friends and find out how Marwuan is around people that he knows well. So we finished our bottle of wine and walked to meet his friends.
Marwuan introduced me to Mohammed and Waled. The bar we were at was run by Mohammed but was not open to the public today so we sat at a table in the corner. The bar was a little freaky because we were the only ones there it was not lit up but you could still see fishes and sea creatures painted on the walls in fluro paint. Walking to the toilet I was looking in all directions thinking that someone would come running out at me. The toilet had no toilet paper lucky I had my hand bag with me filled with tissues. You had to be always prepared in this country at restrooms because the majority of the population does not use toilet paper they use running water to clean them self.
Marwuan had bought a bottle of whiskey with him that I had got duty free. The men were very excited it was a rare occasion to drink a good imported bottle of alcohol. They were smashing down the drinks straight so the stories were coming out. They both told me what they had heard about me and that they were interested in meeting me as much as I was in meeting them. Both of them told me that they have never seen Marwuan so into a girl as much as me before but I thought it was just the whiskey talking so I just laughed it off and changed the subject. Marwuan went all shy for a while after that so there must be some truth behind it I remember thinking to myself. We sat around talking about the situation that was going on Egypt at the moment for hours.After the bottle was polished off we all called it a night and we caught a jeep back to our hotel. Almost 4 in the morning we laid in bed watching the protesters in Cairo on the TV until we both fell asleep in each others arms
Night time prayers
I
passed out as soon as my head hit the pillow it was about 8pm by the
time I got to bed. I remember hours after I went to bed Marwuan came in
and gave me kiss on the cheek goodnight before he went to sleep, it must
have been very early in the morning because not long after I heard the
call for morning prayer blasting through the window above my head. The
mosque was directly across the road from the
house so this was the loudest call for prayer I had heard yet with the
speaker pointed directly at us. Marwuan's mum woke up and hoped from bed
and covered her hair shbegan to pray, whispering to herself standing
on a little rug she had facing towards the mosque. She didn't know I
was watching as the room was still dark with little light coming through
the bedroom door, I was intrigued I had only seen how Muslims pray on
television. She would bend down on the rug placing her forehead on the
ground then sit up on her knees then back up on her feet again she did
this two or three times once back in the kneeling position she would
turn her head side to side like she was greeting someone then back on
her feet. This went on for several minutes. After the prayer she
uncovered her hair and went back to bed and minutes later was snoring.
Because I went to bed so early I now lay awake not able to get back to sleep, I thought about sneaking out to Marwuan but the sun was still not up yet. So I laid there thinking about religion. Marwuan had always said to me he did not mind if I was Muslim or not but would that be different when I lived here. Marwuan's mother did asks me earlier in the evening if I would convert to Islam and as I had also told Marwuan I would read into it but I am not changing just because I am moving to an Islamic state. I had heard many bad things about Islam and I remember after September 11 I was scared for a little while of anyone resembling a Muslim. I grew up in a country town with no or very little contact with this religion I only knew what I had seen on television or in a movie. I did now have a few Muslim friends and staff back in Melbourne but did not know much about the religion at all. I have to make sure I asks lots of question to Marwuan when I get the chance and when I get back to Melbourne purchase an English version of the Quran to wrap myself around Islam because I'm sure I will be asked if I will convert by many people once I am living here.
Hours passed by as I nodded in and out of sleep, the room lit up with the sunlight coming through the window it had to be after 7am now so I got up and walked through the apartment. Everyone was still asleep as I snuck up to where Marwuan was sleeping. I gave him a kiss on the forehead and he mumbled something but did not wake. So i just sat there for a while watching him sleep. But I got impatient after about 10 minutes so I shook him a little. This time he woke up a little startled. It took him a second or two to realise what was going on. He pulled me close and kissed my forehead but I pulled back quickly I didn't want his family to walk in and see us like this, what would they think of me then. I sat back up in one of the chairs and told Marwuan about me seeing his mother this morning and what I had been doing for hours. He nodded his head but was not in the mood to talk about religion now "We have heaps of time to talk about that" he said "Let get some breakfast".
By the time Marwuan actually moved from where he was sleeping a good thirty minutes after he said "lets get breakfast" his whole family was up. Mumma and Sally were getting ready for work. They both worked at the Cairo International Airport so we would all go together as Marwuan and I had to catch a plane to Sharm el Sheik in a few hours. Breakfast would have to wait until we got to the airport as we had no time to prepare anything now.
At the airport it was time to go our separate way from Sally and Mumma as we were at a different terminal. This would be my goodbye to them for this trip as I was flying directly out after our trip to Dahab. Both of them hugged me for a long time. Sally kept telling me that mumma and her both loved me would miss me very much. I got a bit teary even though I had spent only one night with them I felt like I was already a part of their family. Once they were out of site I hugged Marwuan and thanked him for inviting me to meet his family. Now I was excited about the future very excited about the next 9 days that we would be spending alone in Dahab. What was going on in the rest of Egypt with the protest were very far at the back of my mind.
Because I went to bed so early I now lay awake not able to get back to sleep, I thought about sneaking out to Marwuan but the sun was still not up yet. So I laid there thinking about religion. Marwuan had always said to me he did not mind if I was Muslim or not but would that be different when I lived here. Marwuan's mother did asks me earlier in the evening if I would convert to Islam and as I had also told Marwuan I would read into it but I am not changing just because I am moving to an Islamic state. I had heard many bad things about Islam and I remember after September 11 I was scared for a little while of anyone resembling a Muslim. I grew up in a country town with no or very little contact with this religion I only knew what I had seen on television or in a movie. I did now have a few Muslim friends and staff back in Melbourne but did not know much about the religion at all. I have to make sure I asks lots of question to Marwuan when I get the chance and when I get back to Melbourne purchase an English version of the Quran to wrap myself around Islam because I'm sure I will be asked if I will convert by many people once I am living here.
Hours passed by as I nodded in and out of sleep, the room lit up with the sunlight coming through the window it had to be after 7am now so I got up and walked through the apartment. Everyone was still asleep as I snuck up to where Marwuan was sleeping. I gave him a kiss on the forehead and he mumbled something but did not wake. So i just sat there for a while watching him sleep. But I got impatient after about 10 minutes so I shook him a little. This time he woke up a little startled. It took him a second or two to realise what was going on. He pulled me close and kissed my forehead but I pulled back quickly I didn't want his family to walk in and see us like this, what would they think of me then. I sat back up in one of the chairs and told Marwuan about me seeing his mother this morning and what I had been doing for hours. He nodded his head but was not in the mood to talk about religion now "We have heaps of time to talk about that" he said "Let get some breakfast".
By the time Marwuan actually moved from where he was sleeping a good thirty minutes after he said "lets get breakfast" his whole family was up. Mumma and Sally were getting ready for work. They both worked at the Cairo International Airport so we would all go together as Marwuan and I had to catch a plane to Sharm el Sheik in a few hours. Breakfast would have to wait until we got to the airport as we had no time to prepare anything now.
At the airport it was time to go our separate way from Sally and Mumma as we were at a different terminal. This would be my goodbye to them for this trip as I was flying directly out after our trip to Dahab. Both of them hugged me for a long time. Sally kept telling me that mumma and her both loved me would miss me very much. I got a bit teary even though I had spent only one night with them I felt like I was already a part of their family. Once they were out of site I hugged Marwuan and thanked him for inviting me to meet his family. Now I was excited about the future very excited about the next 9 days that we would be spending alone in Dahab. What was going on in the rest of Egypt with the protest were very far at the back of my mind.
Meeting the family
When I
departed off the plane this time I felt straight away that things were
different in Egypt. The airport was pretty much empty unlike last time I
was here I stood out like a sore thumb I could tell by looking around
that I was the only westerner woman and could only see one other
westerner man in the customs line ahead of me. The customs officer took
his time checking my passport asking many questions
about my reason for visiting honestly I felt like he had nothing better
to do so he was wasting his time talking to me. When I collected my
bags from the conveyor belt a man was right beside me asking if I needed
assistance to take it to the car. I declined and made my way to the
exit.
At the x-ray machine I was asked to open my bag by security and was being questioned again about my reasoning to visit Egypt during this time. Over and over again they asked if I was a journalist. And my answer was the same no I am meeting my partner. After going through my whole bag throwing my belongings on the floor in the open area they found no signs I was a journalist and told me I was free to go. Later I asked Marwuan what would it matter if I was a journalist and he told me that the president did not want the world to know what was going on here at this time. Apparently downtown many international journalists were getting beaten, locked up and questioned and one or two even killed because they were supposed spies for international agencies.
When I was out of the airport Marwuan was nowhere to be seen I stood and waited for 15 minutes then gave him a call. He said he was stuck in traffic due to a demonstration that was taking part not far from the airport so I had to wait patiently in the heat for just under an hour. I was cursing to myself this was not a great start to my vacation I told him that he must be there waiting when I walk out the airport especially in the current situation then I saw him running in my direction. I ran over to him and gave him the biggest hug not letting go of him for a good 4 minutes it was so good to be back in his arms after being away from each other for three and half months. The anger I was feeling only minutes ago was long gone He apologised for the delay and told me that he ended up jumping out of the taxi and running part the way here because the traffic as no longer moving.
All baggage in a taxi we were to make our way to Marwuans family home, I was feeling very nervous about meeting his family but also very excited that I was now with Marwuan I kept looking at him and smiling as well as looking what was going on the side of the road around us. Army tanks were parked every 500 meters or so with men standing on them or in front of them with guns in their hands. Now it felt real I was in a country that was in a bad state but still I felt safe just being with Marwuan put all the worry about what was going on in the country to the back of my mind.
When we arrived at Marwuan's before entering the apartment my heart started racing what if they don't like me, "should I be wearing a head scarf to meet them" I asked Marwuan. He laughed "No you are not Muslim there is no need for you to wear one". Good good I had a few questions that I wanted to ask Marwuan that I thought about on the plane about his family but I had been caught up in the moment of seeing him I had completely forgot until now and it was too late. Marwuan rang the door bell and not long after his sister answered.
I was greeted with big hugs and kissed four times twice on each cheek to be honest I was a little confused about what was going on back in Australia we greet with a hug and a kiss on the cheek but not 4 kisses. His mother came rushing over with her arms wide open here we go again big hug and 4 kisses. Ok this must be the normal here I will keep that in mind for the next person I came in contact with.
Next was his father bracing myself for the hug and many kisses i leaned in to say hello but his father stepped back and shook my hand "Welcome" was all he said and walked away. I was lead into a lounge room where the furniture was wood but painted in gold and lots of little porcelain trinkets were on tables around. I later found out that most Egyptian houses were designed the same. A sitting room for guest that was dressed with grand furniture and all your treasures on display. This is not the room you hang out in on a daily basis only enter this area when you are trying to impress them.
Marwuans mum and Sister Sally sat down with me in the grand room while Marwuan took my bags into the room I would be sleeping. Marwuans mum who I will now refer as Mumma knew very little English, Sally studied English but did not use it often was my only way to communicate while Marwuan was absent. You could tell that Sally was nervous speaking with me and even apologised a few times about her English but I understood her fine so she had no need to apologise. It actually was quite funny because Marwuan mum was asking questions flat out and poor Sally had to translate.
Marwuan returned and Mumma went off to set the table which was in eye sight. I could see the food being put on the table, worried I whispered to Marwuan "are there more guest coming" No joke there was enough food to feed an army. I was asked to sit at the table. Tired after being travelling for 24 hours and not hungry, all I wanted was a bed I took my seat at the table. In front of me was 2 roast chickens, pasta bake, a plate of chicken schnitzels, plate of beef schnitzels, plate of Egyptian rice for each seat, a bowl of soup called Molokhia (which is a slippery leafy soup which may sound not great but is surprisingly very nice. You spoon it on to your rice and yum yum yum) also flat bread was scattered around the table.
Everyone other than me dug in, you could tell that they had been waiting for me to arrive to eat. Hardly cutlery was used Mumma was breaking up the chicken with her hands placing pieces in front of everyone it was not like I was not used to using my hand to eat because I had been to India many timesand thats just what they did there but I wanted to ensure that I was acting proper meeting Marwuans family for the first time, my plate was stacked with food that mumma had placed. There was no way in hell that I could eat all of this but slowly I started making my way though the mountain of pasta, meat and rice.
While eating the questions kept coming from his mum and dad with marwuans and Sally's help I was able to communicate. Marwuans dad Raafat must not have know much about me prior other than I was a westerner because he asked me if America was good a good place. Both Marwuan and I laughed but corrected him that I was from Australia. I think we embarrassed him by his face expression but he kept talking by telling me that he had been working in the Airforce as a mechanic.
After struggling through the food I had to ask if I could excuse myself to go to bed. I was exhausted. I was shown to my bedroom which I would be sharing with Sally and his mother. The house was a two bedroom house but the woman slept in one room and Raafat Marwuan's father slept in the other. As Marwuan worked away he would share with the woman when he was home but this was very rare that he would be home. However because I was staying in the woman's room Marwuan was not allowed to sleep in the same room so his mother made a bed on the floor for him in the fancy guest room. This felt strange in the beginning and a I thought quiet strange but I had to understand different cultures. In the back of my mind I hoped that if Marwuan and I were to grow old together that we would not be sharing different rooms.
Most the relationships in Egypt are not based on love especially in their day. I will give you an example Sally Marwuans sister met her now husband at work he liked the way she looked so Ahmad the man I am speaking of asked for her hand in marriage, he then asked Sally's mum to meet him, once she then approved Marwuan met him and approved then he was introduced to the father (which is a big thing) once father meets the potential groom to be Sally's father asks that Ahmad provide a house for the bride (to own the house) and to be able to provide for the wife without her working and also to furnish half the house. It is the wife's family responsibility to furnish the other half. Once approved by father the engagement period is about a year. During this year couples are not allowed to meet without future bride's fathers consent and time alone is very very rare until married. Man come to brides house to spend and get to know his future wife also phone calls are allowed. Most Egyptians are virgins until married.
At the x-ray machine I was asked to open my bag by security and was being questioned again about my reasoning to visit Egypt during this time. Over and over again they asked if I was a journalist. And my answer was the same no I am meeting my partner. After going through my whole bag throwing my belongings on the floor in the open area they found no signs I was a journalist and told me I was free to go. Later I asked Marwuan what would it matter if I was a journalist and he told me that the president did not want the world to know what was going on here at this time. Apparently downtown many international journalists were getting beaten, locked up and questioned and one or two even killed because they were supposed spies for international agencies.
When I was out of the airport Marwuan was nowhere to be seen I stood and waited for 15 minutes then gave him a call. He said he was stuck in traffic due to a demonstration that was taking part not far from the airport so I had to wait patiently in the heat for just under an hour. I was cursing to myself this was not a great start to my vacation I told him that he must be there waiting when I walk out the airport especially in the current situation then I saw him running in my direction. I ran over to him and gave him the biggest hug not letting go of him for a good 4 minutes it was so good to be back in his arms after being away from each other for three and half months. The anger I was feeling only minutes ago was long gone He apologised for the delay and told me that he ended up jumping out of the taxi and running part the way here because the traffic as no longer moving.
All baggage in a taxi we were to make our way to Marwuans family home, I was feeling very nervous about meeting his family but also very excited that I was now with Marwuan I kept looking at him and smiling as well as looking what was going on the side of the road around us. Army tanks were parked every 500 meters or so with men standing on them or in front of them with guns in their hands. Now it felt real I was in a country that was in a bad state but still I felt safe just being with Marwuan put all the worry about what was going on in the country to the back of my mind.
When we arrived at Marwuan's before entering the apartment my heart started racing what if they don't like me, "should I be wearing a head scarf to meet them" I asked Marwuan. He laughed "No you are not Muslim there is no need for you to wear one". Good good I had a few questions that I wanted to ask Marwuan that I thought about on the plane about his family but I had been caught up in the moment of seeing him I had completely forgot until now and it was too late. Marwuan rang the door bell and not long after his sister answered.
I was greeted with big hugs and kissed four times twice on each cheek to be honest I was a little confused about what was going on back in Australia we greet with a hug and a kiss on the cheek but not 4 kisses. His mother came rushing over with her arms wide open here we go again big hug and 4 kisses. Ok this must be the normal here I will keep that in mind for the next person I came in contact with.
Next was his father bracing myself for the hug and many kisses i leaned in to say hello but his father stepped back and shook my hand "Welcome" was all he said and walked away. I was lead into a lounge room where the furniture was wood but painted in gold and lots of little porcelain trinkets were on tables around. I later found out that most Egyptian houses were designed the same. A sitting room for guest that was dressed with grand furniture and all your treasures on display. This is not the room you hang out in on a daily basis only enter this area when you are trying to impress them.
Marwuans mum and Sister Sally sat down with me in the grand room while Marwuan took my bags into the room I would be sleeping. Marwuans mum who I will now refer as Mumma knew very little English, Sally studied English but did not use it often was my only way to communicate while Marwuan was absent. You could tell that Sally was nervous speaking with me and even apologised a few times about her English but I understood her fine so she had no need to apologise. It actually was quite funny because Marwuan mum was asking questions flat out and poor Sally had to translate.
Marwuan returned and Mumma went off to set the table which was in eye sight. I could see the food being put on the table, worried I whispered to Marwuan "are there more guest coming" No joke there was enough food to feed an army. I was asked to sit at the table. Tired after being travelling for 24 hours and not hungry, all I wanted was a bed I took my seat at the table. In front of me was 2 roast chickens, pasta bake, a plate of chicken schnitzels, plate of beef schnitzels, plate of Egyptian rice for each seat, a bowl of soup called Molokhia (which is a slippery leafy soup which may sound not great but is surprisingly very nice. You spoon it on to your rice and yum yum yum) also flat bread was scattered around the table.
Everyone other than me dug in, you could tell that they had been waiting for me to arrive to eat. Hardly cutlery was used Mumma was breaking up the chicken with her hands placing pieces in front of everyone it was not like I was not used to using my hand to eat because I had been to India many timesand thats just what they did there but I wanted to ensure that I was acting proper meeting Marwuans family for the first time, my plate was stacked with food that mumma had placed. There was no way in hell that I could eat all of this but slowly I started making my way though the mountain of pasta, meat and rice.
While eating the questions kept coming from his mum and dad with marwuans and Sally's help I was able to communicate. Marwuans dad Raafat must not have know much about me prior other than I was a westerner because he asked me if America was good a good place. Both Marwuan and I laughed but corrected him that I was from Australia. I think we embarrassed him by his face expression but he kept talking by telling me that he had been working in the Airforce as a mechanic.
After struggling through the food I had to ask if I could excuse myself to go to bed. I was exhausted. I was shown to my bedroom which I would be sharing with Sally and his mother. The house was a two bedroom house but the woman slept in one room and Raafat Marwuan's father slept in the other. As Marwuan worked away he would share with the woman when he was home but this was very rare that he would be home. However because I was staying in the woman's room Marwuan was not allowed to sleep in the same room so his mother made a bed on the floor for him in the fancy guest room. This felt strange in the beginning and a I thought quiet strange but I had to understand different cultures. In the back of my mind I hoped that if Marwuan and I were to grow old together that we would not be sharing different rooms.
Most the relationships in Egypt are not based on love especially in their day. I will give you an example Sally Marwuans sister met her now husband at work he liked the way she looked so Ahmad the man I am speaking of asked for her hand in marriage, he then asked Sally's mum to meet him, once she then approved Marwuan met him and approved then he was introduced to the father (which is a big thing) once father meets the potential groom to be Sally's father asks that Ahmad provide a house for the bride (to own the house) and to be able to provide for the wife without her working and also to furnish half the house. It is the wife's family responsibility to furnish the other half. Once approved by father the engagement period is about a year. During this year couples are not allowed to meet without future bride's fathers consent and time alone is very very rare until married. Man come to brides house to spend and get to know his future wife also phone calls are allowed. Most Egyptians are virgins until married.
Egypt here I come
I
tried to contact Marwuan to see how things were going last time I spoke
to him he was on the bus back to Cairo from Dahab with his tour group,
he had told me that people on the streets had been approaching the bus
with batons and machetes searching to see who was in the bus but then
would let them pass once they noticed they were tourist. I asked if he
was scared but he told me he was a little unease but that they were just residents protecting their area from thugs and protesters.
Today I could not get through to him each time I called his mobile all I heard was a message from a lady speaking Arabic I tried throughout the day without any luck, I was keeping a close eye on the news though the internet it was then announced that the Egyptian government had cut all phone lines and internet access in the country to prevent people from communicating, the government was worried that the more people spoke through social media the worse the situation would get. Social media was how the protest was organised in the first place. The fact that I could not contact Marwuan in anyway was worrying but I had a feeling that he was safe.
The next day Marwuan contacted me the government had lifted the restrictions he told me that for the last two days he and his group had been camping out at the airport with lots of other tourists and expats trying to get flights to leave the country. He said that the army and police were protecting the airport so I had no need to worry. Most of Marwuans group had left the country but he was sticking around helping other tour leaders with their groups as it was crazy at the airport. Food and water supplies were low he was trying to keep the sprits up of those that we still stranded. At this point it looked like I would be cancelling my trip.
I contacted the airline and they informed me because of the situation I would get a full refund if I decided to cancel but something was telling me not to cancel yet I still had 5 more days until I departed so I thanked the person I was speaking to and hung up the phone.
The next day Marwuan left the airport after spending three days there. We were able to Skype and I was able to get up to date with the situation. Apparently things had calmed down there was still the odd riot downtown but everywhere else had calmed down. They say that up to a million people were downtown Cairo protesting for the president to step down however he did not look like he was going anywhere. The Army had now taken over control of the security as the Egyptians no longer trusted the police saying that they were all corrupt. Marwuan again told me that if I wanted to cancel my trip he would understand but I did not want to cancel. I was not spending much time in Cairo anyway I was only there a night then we would be catching a flight to Sharm then driving to Dahab far far away from Cairo.So I told him that I would still be coming.
The day of the trip had come even though everyone around me was telling me to cancel my flight and think about my safety the Australian news programs were stating that there was a chance that a civil war could break out if the president did not step down. Marwuan said that it was not that bad so I was insistent that I was going. At the Melbourne airport I checked in and told the clerk I was going to Egypt. She looked up at me with a crazy look and then asked me if I had been watching the news and if I had any idea what is going on there. I replied I had was well informed as my partner lives there. She nodded and smiled and told me to have a safe trip while handing back my ticket. At the customs counter I was asked where I was going and when I said Egypt again the clerk asked me the same question. My heart was beating fast I was starting to question if I was doing the right thing or if I should turn around and return home. No all will be fine Marwuan will make sure that I am safe he would not let me come if it was not safe I walked through customs and took a seat in the waiting area.
Today I could not get through to him each time I called his mobile all I heard was a message from a lady speaking Arabic I tried throughout the day without any luck, I was keeping a close eye on the news though the internet it was then announced that the Egyptian government had cut all phone lines and internet access in the country to prevent people from communicating, the government was worried that the more people spoke through social media the worse the situation would get. Social media was how the protest was organised in the first place. The fact that I could not contact Marwuan in anyway was worrying but I had a feeling that he was safe.
The next day Marwuan contacted me the government had lifted the restrictions he told me that for the last two days he and his group had been camping out at the airport with lots of other tourists and expats trying to get flights to leave the country. He said that the army and police were protecting the airport so I had no need to worry. Most of Marwuans group had left the country but he was sticking around helping other tour leaders with their groups as it was crazy at the airport. Food and water supplies were low he was trying to keep the sprits up of those that we still stranded. At this point it looked like I would be cancelling my trip.
I contacted the airline and they informed me because of the situation I would get a full refund if I decided to cancel but something was telling me not to cancel yet I still had 5 more days until I departed so I thanked the person I was speaking to and hung up the phone.
The next day Marwuan left the airport after spending three days there. We were able to Skype and I was able to get up to date with the situation. Apparently things had calmed down there was still the odd riot downtown but everywhere else had calmed down. They say that up to a million people were downtown Cairo protesting for the president to step down however he did not look like he was going anywhere. The Army had now taken over control of the security as the Egyptians no longer trusted the police saying that they were all corrupt. Marwuan again told me that if I wanted to cancel my trip he would understand but I did not want to cancel. I was not spending much time in Cairo anyway I was only there a night then we would be catching a flight to Sharm then driving to Dahab far far away from Cairo.So I told him that I would still be coming.
The day of the trip had come even though everyone around me was telling me to cancel my flight and think about my safety the Australian news programs were stating that there was a chance that a civil war could break out if the president did not step down. Marwuan said that it was not that bad so I was insistent that I was going. At the Melbourne airport I checked in and told the clerk I was going to Egypt. She looked up at me with a crazy look and then asked me if I had been watching the news and if I had any idea what is going on there. I replied I had was well informed as my partner lives there. She nodded and smiled and told me to have a safe trip while handing back my ticket. At the customs counter I was asked where I was going and when I said Egypt again the clerk asked me the same question. My heart was beating fast I was starting to question if I was doing the right thing or if I should turn around and return home. No all will be fine Marwuan will make sure that I am safe he would not let me come if it was not safe I walked through customs and took a seat in the waiting area.
Is it safe to visit
A few
days later I had decided that I should sell my car to assist with my
saving plan. I had my car for two years and still had one more year of
repayments but I saw that as dead money that I could be putting into my
savings for travel. Once my car was up for sale a lot of people started
to believe that I was actually going ahead with my plan. My car was sold
a week later. I guess I didn't expect
it to sell so quickly and once it was gone I was a little lost I was
back to catching public transport which meant a bus and train to and
from work every day but I was saving money and that’s all that matter to
me at the time.
Each morning on the bus I would call Marwuan and he would talk to me most the way to work, we would talk about everything, sometime though we would run out of things to say and just sit on the phone in silence just knowing that he was on the other side of the phone would make my heart race fast. My phone bill rocketed through the roof the money that I was supposed to be saving was going to my phone company my highest bill was $500 for the month and I could not continue paying that if I wanted to have enough money to pack up and leave Australia. I had to tell Marwuan that I could not continue calling him each day and that we would have to email or text while he was on tour because he did not have skype available during this time. It made it hard for both of us as we were not having the regular contact like before.
Little things started to trigger fights because we were interpreting things the wrong way via text and emails, because we could not hear the tone of the voice we would jump at the wrong conclusions. The distance was starting to affect us and we still had four more months until we were due to meet up again. We were both started to question whether we were making the right decision we were basing a lot on a holiday romance and a relationship that was only long distance, if we continued like this we would not be together by the time it came for me to leave Australia. That’s when Marwuan came up with a plan. Valentines day was three weeks away and he asked if I could come to Egypt for valentine's day, It sounded like an awesome plan but it would cut into my savings with the flight alone being $2000 and I would not get paid holiday pay as I had just returned from Christmas holidays I said I would think about it and talk to my boss if I could take the leave.
That night I could not sleep all I could think about was being in Egypt for Valentines day. It would be our first valentines day of hopefully many more to come how awesome would it be if we could spend it together. The next morning at work I asked my boss for the leave. He said he would think about it but it was very unlikely because he needed me at work due to it being a busy time for recruiting and it was my portfolio to do all this for the centre. My heart sank but held on to hope that he would say yes. I told Marwuan that night I had asked for the leave and I will know tomorrow the answer however I was still concerned about the money it would cost to come at such short notice. Maruwan told me not to worry about any money he would have it covered, it would be his gift to me. All I had to do was get the leave and find the flight and he would do everything else as well as reimburse me for the flight once I got there.
Again I had a sleepless night anxious to find out what my boss would say about the leave. Once I got to work the next day I approached my boss for his answer. He declined my leave he needed me there during this time. Back at my desk I could not hold back my tears I was devastated I was not only looking forward to going to Egypt to see Marwuan I was sure that if I didn't go this time our relationship would not make it the next 4 months. I took some time to myself in a meeting room to calm down. It was then I decided that I would resign then and there. Something told me that I needed to go to Egypt and that was the most important thing to me right now. I regrouped and went into my managers office I sat down and told him that if the leave was not available I am sorry but I would have to resign. I did not want to put him in a tough position but this trip was very important to me and I needed to go. He had no choice he really didn't want me to leave before the end of May like planned so he approved the leave. A part of me felt terrible and guilty that I put my manager in this position but I was happy that I didn't have to resign because I really needed to have this job until I was due to leave.
That night I booked my tickets online I was due to leave to Egypt in 2 weeks for 12 days. The plan was to spend two days in Cairo meeting his family then we would fly to Dahab and spend the remaining time alone getting to know each other without other people around. It would all be great.
It was now a week until I was due to fly to Egypt and a massive protest happened in Cairo, Egyptians wanted their president Hosni Mubarak to step down. The protest turned into riots Cairo and other Egyptian cities were on fire, people were losing their lives. Western countries were sending planes to take their citizens out of the country. What was I going to do? I could not go to Egypt when it was in this state. It was unsafe I would wait and see if things would calm down I still had a week until I was due to depart.
Each morning on the bus I would call Marwuan and he would talk to me most the way to work, we would talk about everything, sometime though we would run out of things to say and just sit on the phone in silence just knowing that he was on the other side of the phone would make my heart race fast. My phone bill rocketed through the roof the money that I was supposed to be saving was going to my phone company my highest bill was $500 for the month and I could not continue paying that if I wanted to have enough money to pack up and leave Australia. I had to tell Marwuan that I could not continue calling him each day and that we would have to email or text while he was on tour because he did not have skype available during this time. It made it hard for both of us as we were not having the regular contact like before.
Little things started to trigger fights because we were interpreting things the wrong way via text and emails, because we could not hear the tone of the voice we would jump at the wrong conclusions. The distance was starting to affect us and we still had four more months until we were due to meet up again. We were both started to question whether we were making the right decision we were basing a lot on a holiday romance and a relationship that was only long distance, if we continued like this we would not be together by the time it came for me to leave Australia. That’s when Marwuan came up with a plan. Valentines day was three weeks away and he asked if I could come to Egypt for valentine's day, It sounded like an awesome plan but it would cut into my savings with the flight alone being $2000 and I would not get paid holiday pay as I had just returned from Christmas holidays I said I would think about it and talk to my boss if I could take the leave.
That night I could not sleep all I could think about was being in Egypt for Valentines day. It would be our first valentines day of hopefully many more to come how awesome would it be if we could spend it together. The next morning at work I asked my boss for the leave. He said he would think about it but it was very unlikely because he needed me at work due to it being a busy time for recruiting and it was my portfolio to do all this for the centre. My heart sank but held on to hope that he would say yes. I told Marwuan that night I had asked for the leave and I will know tomorrow the answer however I was still concerned about the money it would cost to come at such short notice. Maruwan told me not to worry about any money he would have it covered, it would be his gift to me. All I had to do was get the leave and find the flight and he would do everything else as well as reimburse me for the flight once I got there.
Again I had a sleepless night anxious to find out what my boss would say about the leave. Once I got to work the next day I approached my boss for his answer. He declined my leave he needed me there during this time. Back at my desk I could not hold back my tears I was devastated I was not only looking forward to going to Egypt to see Marwuan I was sure that if I didn't go this time our relationship would not make it the next 4 months. I took some time to myself in a meeting room to calm down. It was then I decided that I would resign then and there. Something told me that I needed to go to Egypt and that was the most important thing to me right now. I regrouped and went into my managers office I sat down and told him that if the leave was not available I am sorry but I would have to resign. I did not want to put him in a tough position but this trip was very important to me and I needed to go. He had no choice he really didn't want me to leave before the end of May like planned so he approved the leave. A part of me felt terrible and guilty that I put my manager in this position but I was happy that I didn't have to resign because I really needed to have this job until I was due to leave.
That night I booked my tickets online I was due to leave to Egypt in 2 weeks for 12 days. The plan was to spend two days in Cairo meeting his family then we would fly to Dahab and spend the remaining time alone getting to know each other without other people around. It would all be great.
It was now a week until I was due to fly to Egypt and a massive protest happened in Cairo, Egyptians wanted their president Hosni Mubarak to step down. The protest turned into riots Cairo and other Egyptian cities were on fire, people were losing their lives. Western countries were sending planes to take their citizens out of the country. What was I going to do? I could not go to Egypt when it was in this state. It was unsafe I would wait and see if things would calm down I still had a week until I was due to depart.
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